The first major west-northwest swell of this fall will impact the coastal waters along the southern Oregon and northern California coast line beginning late Wednesday.
A long period west swell of 16 to 18 feet at 16 seconds are expected to produce breaking waves of 20 to 25 ft. for west-northwest facing beaches.
Increased wave action may over-top jetties and rocks, as well as enhance how far waves will run up beach slopes.
Large breaking waves will sweep over rocks and jetties, creating very hazardous conditions along and within the surf zone.
Higher than normal run-up could inundate beaches and low lying shoreline. Beach erosion is possible, and exposed infrastructure may be damaged.
Remember, never turn your back to the ocean.